The Gentrification of Thrifting

By Ellie Bavier

Thrifting is on the rise, as one of the most prominent options for younger generations to form their identity around fashion. It’s undoubtedly the most popular way to reduce your carbon footprint and score finds that are wholly special and exciting. But while thrifting has taken over consumption habits in teenagers and adults alike, the negative side effects are often brushed under the rug. 

Thrifting helps the environment in three important ways. When you buy pre-owned clothes, you avoid economically supporting the production of new clothing and adding to the waste of these production cycles. Also, the money you are giving supports second-hand stores, or other vendors. This circulates money through thrift stores and smaller businesses, rather than fast fashion. And, shopping second hand gives people a different outlet to get rid of old clothes, rather than sending them to landfills. Giving someone else’s clothes new life and purpose allows for the cycle of reusing perfectly good clothes to propagate.

Because of its climate-conscious nature, thrifting has risen to popularity. Younger generations are in the midst of finding their own original style, and GenZ fashion is filled with exceptional vintage items, quirky finds, and intense individualization. Second-hand shopping lends itself to this perfectly. High school and college students are particularly more keen to frugal spending; thrifting allows young people to curate their style, without extravagant costs. 

There are a plethora of thrifting options available to all ages and locations. Along with the classic Goodwills and Salvation Army stores, high numbers of boutique thrift stores are popping up in cities and towns. These stores hand pick each garment they put on the shelves, often with a specific style or aesthetic in mind. They make it easier for their customers, so shoppers don’t have to sift through mounds of clothing. Consignment stores allow you to sell your own clothes and earn a percentage of the price an item is sold for, while buyers choose from your offered garments. Particularly during the COVID-19 pandemic, online stores have been flooded with sales and new consigners. Retailers like thredUp provide great options through their massive warehouses, and luxury retailers like TheRealReal and Vestiaire offer vintage and lightly used brand labels. Through their app platform, Depop connects everyday people to other fashionable peers. But, as more people use thrift or consignment, stores raise their prices, and the good items go quickly.

Thrift stores weren’t always this popular. The Berkeley Economic Review explains that “thrifting no longer carries strong taboos of uncleanliness and poverty as it had in the past. So, in the name of eco-consciousness, many demographics that could afford to splurge on high-quality, low-impact purchases are deciding to thrift instead.” Thrifting was heavily stigmatized under the guise of poverty and uncleanliness. Now, second-hand shopping is glorified and romanticized. 

These days, caring about the environment is cool. As wealthier crowds started looking for alternative climate conscious options, they’ve turned their eye towards thrifting. This flood of interest and popularity has gentrified the business; the influx of customers has left fewer quality items on the rack for people who can’t afford to shop at brand names or sustainable shops. Not only does it reduce the number of good options, but thrift stores have started rising their prices to meet the demand. Price tag numbers are on the rise in stores like Goodwill. Goodwill raises prices on name brand items, even if they aren’t in the best condition. These brand items are quickly snatched off racks, and it leaves fewer attractive options. Even online stores and apps, like Depop, have changed their consumer base. Dazed Magazine explicates that “with charity shops cleared out and ‘rare’ Brandy Melville selling for hundreds of pounds, some say the second-hand clothing app is heading towards exclusivity.” Depop store owners have started selling common place items from fast fashion brands like Brandy Melville, Forever 21, Zara, and H&M under the guise of “rare” garments. Because of this label, they then jack up prices. Also, the app in general, according to TikTokker Naomi El, has “become a lot more expensive.” Second-hand garment shops and online stores are transforming their platforms, thus their consumer base, and vice versa. But this leaves behind those who really need them. Shoppers who once relied on thrift stores no longer have the assurance that they used to. 

This leaves young shoppers in between a rock and a hard place. How do you shop ethically, in all senses of the word? One way is to focus your consumption on stores and prices that are within your economic ability, rather than where you can find the greatest deals. This allows you to still buy second-hand, yet not take away the good value purchases from thrift stores. After all, the most sustainable option is focusing on quality over quantity; invest in something more expensive, and ultimately buy less. Another option is to avoid thrift stores known to raise their prices. This discourages them from creating unattainable price ceilings. You can also look into smaller shops, borrow clothing from friends, or learn how to repurpose and upcycle. Luckily, the options are endless.

Cover photo of ReLove in San Fransisco, taken by Ellie Bavier